If you’ve had the chance to read my latest blog, you will know that we recently went on a tour to Connemara and Cong through the Galway Tour Company. Well, a few days after our adventure, we decided to go on one more tour, this time through the Burren and Cliffs of Moher (which is a part of the Burren). It was another wonderful day and an experience I will never forget. Follow me along on my journey! To Ireland we go!
Our first stop is Kinvara, a small fishing village in County Galway. Here, a 16th century fortress, Dunguaire Castle, watches over the town from a rocky stretch of coastline along Galway Bay. Rory Mor O’Shaughnessy built the formidable estate in 1520 and since then the castle has undergone numerous sieges and has been owned by multiple Irish clans. Despite the wear and tear, the castle walls are intact with an inner courtyard and one main tower peering over the establishment. While we can go into the courtyard and the area around the castle for free, there is a fare for those wishing to climb the tower leading to the top of the castle.
Along the road leading to the estate, hedgerows of wild Irish blackberry blossoms peek from beyond the wall bordering the road, little cream petals glistening in the sun. Water surrounds most of the castle, with swans watching curiously on, their reflections a mirage in the water.
Soon enough, we are on our way to the Burren, located in counties Galway and Clare. From where Justin and I live, we can see the mountains of the Burren from afar when we walk along Salthill Beach. So, to get there, we are tracking a crescent-shaped path from one side of Galway Bay, to the other.
Our bus driver, David, stops at a section of the Burren that is close to the ocean, with silver limestone cliffs lining the sea. We get out and walk around and the sun is shining. The sky mirrors the sea, both a deep, turquoise blue.
The Burren is an INCREDIBLE national park with sheets of limestone stretching their way throughout the hills and into the sea. It covers the entire expanse of land and walking along the Burren feels moon-like with its gray hues traveling far and wide. Limestone is a soft rock and over time, wind and rain can impress upon it various, organic patterns. To walk on the surface of the Burren is to play a game of hopscotch. Watch as I leap over wide criss-cross cracks along its surface, smaller ones zig-zagging every which way, dappled indentations, and intricate layers traveling through the rock, down into the earth.
The Burren contains approximately 70% of all of Ireland’s flora and fauna which is incredible, keeping in mind that the Burren is mostly rock. Resilient yet delicate grasses, ferns, and flowers pop up everywhere in the limestone cracks. Deep yellows, magentas, and violets, permeate the grey scene with brilliance. It’s as if the moon had a party, with colorful confetti of various sizes and textures waving excitedly in the wind. My favorite are the harebells, little violet blooms that look like Tinker Bell’s skirt. In fact, these flowers are connected with fairies in Ireland, and its Gaelic name means goblin/ghost thimble. Click here to learn more about the Burren’s flora and fauna 🙂
Our driver tells us it is time to head for the Cliffs of Moher, with a quick stop in Doolin for lunch. Doolin is the Irish town that borders the Cliffs. It has a small, main street that ends with a highly photographed, bright pink shop with a thatched roof. It is the first thing we see as we cross the bridge into the town.
We stop for lunch at McGann’s Pub and Restaurant. It has a wonderful arrangement of outdoor seating options in a garden that is bordered by a river. There are potted flowers everywhere. Justin and I order vegetable soup, a creamy medley of veg, paired with brown bread and butter on the side. It is delicious, by far the best pub food I’ve had so far in Ireland.
Soon enough, we arrive at the Cliffs of Moher. We picked the perfect day to go. It is a warm day with a totally blue sky. The air is uncharacteristically still. As I walk from the car park to the stairway leading to the cliffs, I see two options ahead of me. I can go either left or right and each provides a unique view of the cliffs. On each side, sweeping cliffs create a meandering, winding coastline. I veer left and walk for a half hour or so, beads of sweat gathering on my brow. In the distance, I hear loud bird calls from puffins and other seabirds which frequent the area. I adore puffins and had hoped to see them up close, but I settle for watching them from afar as they quickly dart to and from little nooks carved in the cliff’s side. As I walk along, I turn around to gaze at the scene to my right. One main bluff can be seen with O’Brien’s Tower looming over the sea. It marks the highest point of the cliffs and its bright white exterior can be seen from nearly anywhere along the cliffs. Near me is a large pasture-like area, with brown cows lazing in the summer sun.
I turn around here and begin the trek along the opposite side of the cliffs. I reach O’Brien’s Tower where I can see the most common view of the cliffs, with four sweeping bluffs weaving back and forth along the sea. Even on a beautiful, clear day the cliffs are shrouded in a light mist, especially those further in the background.
Soon, our driver announces it is time to leave. We have one more stop on the return home and that is Poulnabrone Dolmen, a portal tomb in County Clare. Two upright stones support a third stone which lays across them, creating a doorway-shaped hole under which around 15 or so people were found to be buried. It was considered a sacred site with many rituals taking place around the time of burial at approximately 3000 BC.
Poulnabrone Dolmen is surrounded by more of the traditional scenery of the Burren and I stand on a limestone slab as I look up at the bright, wispy clouds above me and the multicolored flowers around my feet all waving in the wind. Along with Connemara, I find that the Burren is now one of my favorite places in Ireland with its shocking and unique beauty.
Our trip to the Burren and Cliffs of Moher was magical. It was fun to see all the picturesque beauty around me and also see the filming locations for both A Princess Bride and Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince. Another fun fact I learned is that the Burren inspired JRR Tolkien’s written depiction of the Misty Mountains and Middle Earth in Lord of the Rings. Additionally, in the Burren there is Poll na Gollum Cave which may be connected with the character of Gollum (peep this article here). Since Lord of the Rings is one of my favorite stories, it was amazing for me to get a glimpse into a location that has inspired a fantasy world that I love.
If you are interested in visiting the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher for yourself, I will link their websites, here, and here.
Thank you for following me along on this adventure! Please leave a comment below, I would love to hear from you!