Finding Wonder in The Wild Atlantic Way

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Warning – by reading this blog post, you may be hit with a travel bug so strong you may just have to visit yourself 🙂

Picture small country roads winding through the greenest fields you’ve ever seen, with stone cottages and fluffy mountain sheep dotting the countryside. Connemara, in County Galway, has been described a “savage beauty” by Oscar Wilde and this description is spot on. It sits along the Wild Atlantic Way on the West Coast of Ireland, with pockets of coast peeking through jagged mountains and rolling fields. Glacial loughs (lakes in Gaelic) line the landscape, opposite the sea, directing the roads between water and mountains in an exciting, meandering route.

For the two years we have lived in Galway, we have desired to see this beautiful place for ourselves. And with the easing of the Covid-19 restrictions in Ireland, we finally had our chance. 

In July, we booked tickets with the Galway Tour Company in downtown Galway as per recommendations from locals. Despite my dislike of organized tours, we decided it was our best option since there are many places on the island which are only accessible by car (and alas, we have yet to acquire a 4-wheel, personal transport vehicle). The tour promised to take us through Connemara and Cong Village on a “magical” day tour unlike any other. 

And let me tell you, I was not disappointed. Allow me to paint the scene…

Before Connemara, we drive through the picturesque Cong Village, on the border of County Mayo and County Galway, where the movie The Quiet Man was filmed. Colorfully painted buildings and an occasional thatched roof line the main road. Streams and a river venture through the village centre winding an intricate pattern along the streets and into the nearby woods. On one side of the village sits Cong Abbey, a 13^th century site with beautiful medieval architecture and a cemetery filled with striking Celtic crosses.

A stone arch leads us from the abbey to the woods, which were once owned by the Guinness family in the 1900’s. The woods are incredible. Thick groves of trees line a soft dirt path, with dense foliage reaching far above our heads. Birdsong fills the air as little bits of sunlight poke through the few cracks that surface between the branches above. Everything looks green. The dim, dappled light and the humidity in the air have a weight to it, and somehow I feel I am swimming through a leafy ocean. The woods are alive, brimming with personality and I can’t help but think it is filled with magic. I don’t want to leave and I hope to go back someday. 

We continue on, through Connemara where the roads are so narrow that our bus driver, Mike, has to veer into the brush on the side whenever a car comes zooming from the opposite direction. It makes me question whether tour buses should venture on these country roads, but somehow Mike makes it work. At one point, we stop and get out of the bus and walk along a quiet road. It is honestly my favorite part of the tour. There are so many different shades of green, with yellow greens, deep dark greens, and reddish and purple greens all throughout the rolling hills. A stream trickles down from the mountain and runs into a river that becomes a beautiful icy blue lake. Connemara mountain sheep are everywhere with ewes and lambs freely roaming the fields and even the roads. They have little curved horns and the longest, curliest fur adorned with little splotches of red and blue paint in various patterns depicting ownership. It’s safe to say that I am falling in love with Ireland a little more here, with its beauty and its sheep.

Then, we are off to Kylemore Abbey within Connemara, a beautiful castle turned Benedictine nunnery, nestled against a verdant hillside. It was built in 1868, home to Mitchell Henry and his wife Margaret. The architecture is stunning, and this estate is by far my favorite castle I’ve seen in Ireland. In front of the abbey lies Kylemore Lough a freshwater lake that, paired with the hillside, creates the perfect scene for photos of the palace-like structure.

The abbey grounds are extensive, and woodsy nature trails surround the castle. Bright magenta foxgloves bloom everywhere, and their vibrant splashes add a colorful hue to the otherwise green landscape.

On the estate, a ten-minute walk away, is an expansive Victorian walled garden. Granite and brick enclose the garden, and gateways with bright turquoise doors lead you into the grounds. Blooming sweet peas spread their delicate vines across trellises, and white daisies line the garden with little white blooms rising from the earth. Apple and pear trees grow along the garden walls. Besides the fruit trees and flowers, a variety of vegetables grow and are sold or used to stock restaurants in the area. Mist-covered mountains from Connemara National Park set a backdrop for the enclosed gardens, adding another delightful detail to the scene. It is lovely to walk through such an impressive and beautiful garden; give me a nice garden and I’m as happy as a clam.

The whole day flies by and before we know it, we are on our way back home. It is a sweet time returning to Galway city. I am filled with wonder and joy from the adventure packed day, and I watch the scenery fly past as I listen to the traditional Irish music blasting through the bus’ speakers. In the row next to us are two older Irish ladies who are on holiday in Galway from elsewhere in Ireland and they, and our bus driver Mike, sing along to all the songs. It is quite endearing. 

All too quickly we find ourselves home.

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Our trip to Cong Village and Connemara is one I will never forget. If you ever get the chance to visit, I would highly recommend visiting Ireland’s west coast with its wild yet ethereal beauty. 

Thank you so much for following me along on my adventures! I would love to hear from you! Have you been to Ireland, or are you hoping to visit someday soon? Leave a comment below if you’d like!